Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. The French manufacturer says the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that ensures controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs. The development is based on a new modeling study of menopausal skin, according to the company.
Silab connects the ferritinophagy deficiency observed during menopause with a lack of bioavailable iron and premature skin aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging. UV radiation can intensify the problem. The company says UV exposure favors degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, causing a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress.
A targeted mechanism
Metallomia is designed to relaunch ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. According to Silab, it facilitates the provision of iron and relaunches the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active is also intended to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. The positioning is therefore specific: the ingredient addresses iron handling and detoxification in menopausal skin rather than acting as a general-purpose anti-aging active. That distinction matters for formulators: the active is positioned for a defined skin state and a specific biological pathway.
In volunteer evaluations cited by Silab, Caucasian skin was revitalized after 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, it prevented lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure, according to the company.
Marshmallow-root supply
For Metallomia, Silab studied the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company set up a traced supply chain with French partners, validated it using criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated the raw material by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Metallomia is patented and recommended at a dose of 0.5% to 2% in all care products intended for menopausal skin. It is available as an aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Its aqueous form is intended to simplify incorporation into finished formulas. The ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural-origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, according to Silab. The company adds that it complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.